Brandy Baker / The Detroit News

Stargazers on the Thames proprietors Michael Hunter, left, and chef Michael Duffin show off some of their dishes, which focus on seasonal and local ingredients.

Molly Abraham: Restaurants

Ontario's Stargazers is full of heavenly dishes

T he proprietors call themselves "the two Michaels" and between Michael Hunter, the front of the house and wine man, and Michael Duffin, the chef working diligently in the open kitchen, they've created an appealing restaurant on the banks of the Thames River in Pain Court, Ontario. It's just far enough from the metro area to be a getaway, and close enough that the trip from downtown Detroit takes only about an hour. Stargazers on the Thames, once the Chatham Yacht and Racing Club, is dedicated to regional cuisine, and especially at this time  of year, the produce from local farms is emphasized, from locally produced pork to goat cheese, sweet corn and tomatoes. Fresh basil, thyme, chives, sage, tarragon, oregano and lavender are plucked from the thriving herb garden at the entrance to the restaurant and used liberally on the white plates. One nearby organic farmer, Leonard Jubenville, not only  provides baby lettuces, asparagus, apricots, peaches and berries for Stargazers, but he is also the artist whose paintings are displayed in the restaurant. The two Michaels completely gutted and renovated the low-slung building, which had been vacant for some time, and opened their restaurant in May 2002. The distinctive menu departs completely from the fish-fry and burger style of some waterside spots. Instead, it's a sophisticated listing of dishes such as organic baby greens in orange mango vinaigrette with strawberries, cantaloupe, grapes and pea shoot sprouts, one of two salads on the appetizer list. The other is the Stargazers Caesar, which departs from the classic to include local bacon, Kalamata olives and Belgian endive, as well as the standard ingredients, for a slightly different twist. Entrees are typified by fresh roasted Muscovy duck breast flavored with thyme and rosemary, atop risotto made with local mushrooms and Parmesan cheese, and grilled pork tenderloin with port wine demi-glace, red currant and apple chutney and mashed Yukon gold potatoes. An especially lovely dish is Stargazers pasta, a bowl of penne tossed in vodka tomato cream sauce with asparagus, peppers, scallions and Angus beef tips.

Server Michael Scott grates pepper over a sauteed escargot appetizer as Diane and Ed Gerard of Tecumseh celebrate their 36th wedding anniversary with dinner at the quaint spot. See full image Stargazers on the Thames 6680 Grande River Line, Pain Court, Ontario. (519) 351-9351 Hours: Lunch: noon-5 p.m. Sat.-Sun. only. Dinner: 5 p.m. every night, with no set closing time. Prices: Lunch: main courses, $13.95-$16.95; dinner appetizers, $5.95-$12.95, except for a tapas platter at $16.95; main courses, $19.95-$28.95; desserts, $5.95-$9.95 (Canadian) Credit cards: All major Liquor: Full bar Smoking: Only on the open air patio Parking: Attached lot Wheelchair access: No barriers Fruit and berries with vanilla ice cream, Canadian maple syrup and an almond tuille. See full image

There are just eight appetizers and the same number of main courses on the simple, one-page menus that come to tables covered in bright blue cloths.

One main course might raise eyebrows at first. It's listed as gazpacho, but it is much more than that, including grilled vegetable terrine, Brie, marinated tofu and baby bok choy along with the expected chilled tomato and cucumber soup.

Each listing, except for soup and salad, includes a wine recommendation. While the list emphasizes wines from such nearby producers as Colio, Sanson Estates, Smith & Wilson and Pelee Island, it also goes farther afield to include some French, Australian, Chilean and California wines as well.

Pretty much everything except the bread is housemade, and that includes ice cream, such as the Chinese five-spice version that accompanies the chef's apple/pear tart, one of several fresh desserts that include banana cheesecake and creme brulee.

The menu changes twice a year. The current one will be in effect until October.

Most tables have a view of two magnificent old trees, a maple and a poplar, as well as the river itself. There's dockage for a few boats, but only those in the 30-35 foot size. Larger boats dock in Chatham, a few kilometers away.

Stargazers is open all year-round. Detailed directions and a map can be found on the restaurant's Web site, www.stargazers rest.com.

You can reach Molly Abraham at (313) 222-1475 or abraham67@comcast.net. Read her restaurant reviews every Friday in Weekend Guide.